In July 2024 Audemars Piguet launched three new versions of the Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked, all featuring a slightly modified version of the calibre 3132 let in plain sight by the openworked setting. Cleverly taking advantage of the model’s continued popularity among collectors, the brand from Le Brassus, after recently releasing a 37mm tone-on-tone gold version, now proposes a trilogy of 41mm models with steel, black ceramic and 18k yellow gold cases paired with contrasting tones of the calibres.
Case, materials and calibre
The case of the new Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked still remains 41mm wide and a 9.9mm thick, featuring an octagonal bezel, a glare proof sapphire crystal front and case-back and resisting up to 50m water depth. The integrated brushed and polished bracelets, matching the case material, deliver a sporty look and secures the watch on the wrist through the modern Audemars Piguet folding clasp.
Despite the movement, the sought after caliber 3132 which provides an autonomy of 45 hours, is the main aspect of interest of the Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked, the materials chosen for the cases are also worthy of consideration. Black ceramic, gold and steel are not novel case materials for this specific reference, however the contrast achieved with the juxtaposition of the case and the movement is remarkable, particularly in the steel and black ceramic versions, both featuring rose gold openworked calibre and screws. On the other hand, the yellow gold model sports an anthracite movement and steel screws.
Definitely not suitable for casual looks or everyday use, the new variations of the Royal oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked feature the use of one of the most interesting movements produced by Audemars Piguet that results to be emphasized by the new contrast between the case tone and the calibre’s one, even if the same movement can fit the 37mm case and it not optimized for the 41mm one.
Watchype feeling
Certainly not a revolution for Audemars Piguet, these models represent a fine reinterpretation of a watch already known, loved, and sought after by enthusiasts. Perhaps a bit bold for the more traditionalists, however, they are undoubtedly an example of how creativity in aesthetic choices can always provide new life to models that can be already considered as “classics”. The revival of already known and appreciated models with different aesthetical features is in certain ways a trend that has been growing lately. Brands don’t bet on innovative solutions or striking new looks but try to donate new life to something that already exists and has already gained recognition. From a business perspective, this is a safe decision, also considering the usually limited production numbers, which cannot be satisfied even with all the different configurations proposed, and it’s confirmed by the constant interest of the market. However, for enthusiasts and collectors, it would be much more interesting to see innovative solutions, groundbreaking technical features and not just the juxtaposition of different colors and materials on already known pieces.
Price and availabilities
Lastly, with regard to availability and prices, while the steel and the gold models are not limited editions, the black ceramic edition is limited to 150 pieces. The price for the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked made by steel is 77.400€, while the black ceramic and yellow gold models are sold for 102.400€.
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